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I preferred my main course of grilled fillet of bream (£15). The fish was flakily fresh and came with new potatoes that actually tasted of potato, with a refreshing rocket pesto, red-pepper sauce and roasted tomatoes. The flavours were sweetly comforting. It was like something out of Delia’s Summer Collection, as was my husband’s rump of lamb (£18) with lamb jus and spring vegetables, including courgettes cut into neat rhombi and tiny charred spears of the last British asparagus. Lamb is harder to get right than beef – overcooked can be dull, undercooked is worse – but this was just so: slices of pinkly tender meat.
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